Glorious and crowded, full of history and churches and cliched old haunts.
Ruins of ruins built upon ruins.

We saw so many school groups and I pitied them- kids growing up here have such a burden of history to learn. I had to learn Tennessee history, which was basically, some soggy water rats fleeing some kind of persecution, floated up on river rafts and stayed. The end.

We stayed near Campo Fiori, which sits on the ruins of the Pompeii theatre. It is a vast market by day, and restaurant and party hall by night.

First day we arrived, we slept a bit, then met with Mauro, a potential captain. We had 3 small beers at a cafe near Piaza Navona.

So hard to stay awake until bedtime! We walked a bit, and had dinner at Hostaria Costanza, right next door to hotel. We didn’t really want to walk off dinner yet, just be able to stumble home and go to bed. It seemed expensive for a local family feeling dive. We had baked turbot for 2, which was fabulous. I’ve missed having whole fish, picking through bones slows down the meal. We had Planeta Chardonnay, which was very good, we’e had it before in Sicily with the Berkeleys and the Finches.. This was perhaps our best meal in Rome, but I am a sucker for a well cooked fish. We walked 15 feet back to Hotel Lnetta, where we stayed for our Rome visit. It has a great location, wonderful service, but very small rooms.
Next day, we walked to Trastevere, to the Forum, to Piazza Venezia, and back to the hotel.

We met with Luca, a potential mate, and had lunch at Elle Effe- pizza which was plain, then napped and went to Spanish Steps and had dinner at an Enoteca on the way. We were more interested in going and seeing than eating, since we are arriving at Amante fat already.
Next day walked to Piazza della Republica, visited the Santa Maria Della Angeli. I never stop picking up my jaw from the wealth and grandeur applied to the churches in Rome.

Also saw Santa Maria Maggiore. Went to hotel and made it to vatican Museum appt at 2:30.


Got one more visit to St Peter’s Basilica. WOW

Dinner at Campo di Fiori restaurant. zzz. We had massages at the hotel in the ruins of the Pompei theatre, which is basically what the whole Campo di Fiiori area is. Our hotel has put a spa in the moldy smelling subterranean ruins, but it works! First massage in a roman ruin!